Christian Lacroix~~歌頌女人的亮麗
一向以塑造瑰麗精緻服裝的Christian Lacroix於1988在巴黎洲際飯店推出首次高級訂作服裝秀時,可以說讓巴黎萬人空巷,甚至還有人去偷取放在櫃臺具名給某人的服裝秀門票,Christian Lacroix受歡迎的程度可見一斑。 但到底為什麼一位曾經擔任博物館館長的設計師能夠使得時裝重鎮的巴黎人人為之瘋狂,其實原因簡單說就是Christian Lacroix對於服裝設計獨特性的執著與無窮無盡的理念實踐! 堅持手工藝術價值永遠不滅論的Christian Lacroix可以為了一次盛會,製作一套不但獨一無二的訂製服飾,而且為了凸顯穿著者的個性與 品味,在設計時還會自問:如果這個布料不需費時設計紡織,也不需高超的剪裁,刺繡也不用太精細完成,那Lacroix就會放棄那個款式。不過就算衣服再複雜再華麗,都要讓穿的人感覺輕巧自在,宛如第二層肌膚。也難怪CR的高級訂作服動輒數十萬,不過價值不斐的藝術創作執著卻受到上流社會仕女的萬般寵愛。 出生在法國南部的Christian Lacroix經常喜歡流連吉普賽人與地中海人駐足的海灘,鬥牛、歌劇與戲劇佔據了他的童年,因此使他對於西班牙風具有獨特的品味。像是一系列斑斕的色彩搭配以及貼合身型的鬥牛士服裝款式,都具有十足浪漫的異國風味。除了高級訂製服,Christian Lacroix的成衣、絲巾、領帶、珠寶、太陽眼鏡、香水等時尚精品也都受到許多人的歡迎。休閒系列的Jeans de Christian Lacroix和針對年輕族群訴求卻融合禮服精緻做工與質感的Bazer de Christian Lacroix在台灣也得到許多講究生活品味消費者的喜愛。
資料來源: http://www.vogue.com.tw/brand/cl.aspx
- Feb 17 Fri 2006 19:52
Christian Lacroix
- Feb 17 Fri 2006 17:36
Spring/summer Paris Haute Couture 2006 (2)
從1987年展開的設計王國,Christian Lacroix總是以鮮豔無比的顏色以及設計風格贏得時尚名流的喜愛,獨樹一格的女裝概念,創造出另一層面的美麗定義。在2006春夏高級訂製大秀中,Lacroix重回普羅旺斯,將梵谷時期的絢麗色彩再度綻放,令人期待。20年來,Lacroix完美精確地將法式經典的優雅華麗風格,融入在設計中,結合本季所有重要的流行元素:不論是仿如鬥牛士的英挺外套、或是精緻的手工刺繡夾克、花團錦簇的夢幻小禮服、及腰的西班牙式華麗大衣、飾有水晶的巴基斯坦中東婦女風情的雪纺罩袍、罌粟花苞般的塔夫綢泡泡圓裙&,這些精緻昂貴的華貴裝飾、柔軟高級的質料,誇張色彩的拿手運用、以及風格獨具的剪裁設計,相信是Christian Lacroix永遠不變的堅持!
The Valentino Show
高級訂製服首席大師Valentino Garavani說"haute couture is now an entirely global affair."。
整場作品發表會上,以背景音樂作效果,營造出環遊全球各地的想像空間,例如:鬥牛場、沙漠荒野、巴森農神殿、丘比娃娃小果園等奇妙景緻;向來總是贏得業界崇高讚譽的大師,死忠顧客遍及亞洲/俄羅斯/印度甚至南美,Valentino認為,女人是上帝的禮物,它的心目中自有一個女神的完美形象,而設計出來的服裝,自然也就是為了朔造那位心目中完美的女人:高聳的法式假髮髻、鮮豔欲滴的紅唇、光滑細膩的前額。 上流社會的仕女們不僅是晚宴,在午餐時也得盛裝打扮,除了得體的洋裝、緊身小外套、短身上衣之外蕾絲胸花、駝鳥羽毛等也都是必備的裝飾。本次的系列有"Paris Loves Lovers",以緊身的象牙白絲緞禮服、層層疊疊的超長裙擺、外罩黑色鑲珠花罩紗;"Hollywood High"則是,波麗露小圓裙造型、以巴勒斯坦的金幣綠綴上毛茸茸的駝鳥羽毛;這些令人目不暇給、華麗又精采的作品,就算是不實穿,Valentino也讓女人美麗的夢想實現。
Anne Valerie Hash
Anne Valerie Hash終於從如何將高大筆挺的合身男士西服套裝於嬌小玲瓏的女性身上跳脫出來;從去年秋季,她完美巧妙地以西班牙式的整體設計,解構了對男性/女性剪裁的對比,如鬥牛士傳統服與弗拉曼柯舞舞者的裝束混融著維多利亞式的華麗外衣、波蕾若舞式短外套搭襯著極高腰褲與燈籠褲;以及滿是蕾絲的浪漫篷裙,卻搭著破爛的男士短上衣。 在2005春季高級訂製女裝上,Anne Valerie Hash鮮明地朝向更女性化的整體設計,例如一件剪裁合身的西裝外套,她會想辦法軟化其俐落感,搭件輕薄柔軟的短上衣、或是代表某個年代的復古連身洋裝、以各式裙款來襯托柔性化的一面;雖然色系上還是採用較低調沉穏的黑色,但透過蕾絲縫邊、絲質衣料、以及層疊的蛋糕式細節設計,為Anne Valerie Hash本季高級訂製女裝增添不少浪漫與柔美情緒,十分迷人。
- Feb 16 Thu 2006 22:30
2006 Brit Awards
剛看完 2006 Brit Awards (全英音樂獎)
心情很high,因為喜歡的歌手都得獎了
不過另外讓我有感而發的則是他們頒獎典禮的熱勁十足的氣氛
舞台前方歌手區擺設了桌椅並serve酒水等飲料供他們在典禮的過程中可以享用
甚至coldplay 的團員還直接就拿著酒瓶一同上台受獎
後方則規劃成開放的觀眾站席,讓他們不但可以在歌手演唱時隨節奏擺動
還可以盡情的為自己支持的歌手歡呼加油
因此整個典禮就是很輕鬆流暢又hight的感覺
要是台灣的金曲獎可以不那麼沉悶嚴肅就好了
一舉拿下英國最佳團體、最佳搖滾演出及最佳現場演出的 Kaiser Chiefs (台灣翻"天皇老子")
Leeds-based rock band Kaiser Chiefs have won three Brit Awards after becoming one of the UK's most popular groups.
They took the prestigious best British group award as well as best rock act and best UK live act. They were also nominated for best album and best British breakthrough act. The Kaiser Chiefs have jumped to the top of a pile of bands reviving a very English brand of perky, jerky guitar pop that was last in fashion over a decade ago. They started out as an unoriginal and uninspired US-influenced garage band called Parva, who released a string of singles in 2001 and 2002 to little response.
Musical epiphany
But they had an epiphany when they decided to shrug off the serious, pseudo-American spirit and write about things closer to home. Kaiser Chiefs' songs are about "life in Leeds and being British and young and hip", singer Ricky Wilson told the BBC News website after they appeared in its Sound of 2005 list. He described their music as "British, quirky, sometimes spooky pop" and said he planned to revive Britpop. "The British have always done it best - from Franz Ferdinand all the way back to The Beatles," he said. The band knew they were on the right track when their first single, I Predict A Riot - about a Saturday night out on the town - just missed the Top 20 in November 2004. And last February, they picked up the Philip Hall Radar Award for best new band at the NME Awards. That set them up for Top 10 hits with more sing-along gems, Oh My God and Every Day I Love You Less and Less.
Festival favourites
Their album Employment generated both critical acclaim and commercial success when it was released last March. It spent several months in the Top 10, selling more than 1.2 million copies in the UK. Wilson has also made a reputation as one of the best live performers on the rock circuit, jumping around wildly - even when he injured his ankle. Their stage antics have made them favourites at festivals including Glastonbury and V. They also made inroads in the US where I Predict A Riot became an unlikely radio hit. They played at the Philadelphia leg of Live 8 and Employment has sold more than 90,000 copies in the US. This month Kaiser Chiefs make a triumphant return to the NME Awards, where they have been nominated for a record six prizes. The band are set to record their next album this year - which Wilson has said will be their "second and final album". But awards and adulation may persuade them to stick around for a while longer.